The Vacheron Constantin ref. 43040 features an unconventional, visually appealing way of displaying time. With only 250 pieces made in yellow gold between 1993 and 1995, the manufacture took inspiration from the jump hour complication of the past. This watch in particular has developed a warm pink tone to the engine turned dial, a patina unique to this watch having left the factory white.

In 1925, a Swiss watchmaker by the name of Robert Cart patented a jump hour complication known as the Chronoscope. His approach featured an hour indicator, which moved around the dial, pointing at the correct minutes. His design became impressively popular during this period and was adopted by Breguet, Cartier, and Vacheron Constantin, among others. The unconventional time display suited the Art Deco period perfectly, with its forward-thinking aesthetic and geometric lines. Vacheron Constantin used the complication in some of their pocket watches, as well as a handful of wristwatches, such as the ref. 3189, made in 1930.

A few decades later, the manufacture resuscitated the design, with the ref. 43040. As a starting point, they used the celebrated Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, which was the thinnest automatic movement in the world when it first came out in 1967. Vacheron Constantin then developed their own jump hour mechanism, creating the calibre 1120HS. Between 1993 and 1995, Vacheron Constantin only produced around 250 pieces in yellow gold and 150 pieces in platinum, making these pieces as rare as they are unusual.

This Jump Hour 43040 takes inspiration from its Art Deco predecessors, imbuing it with a vintage, nostalgic aesthetic highlighted by its stepped bezel and straight lugs. On the dial, a small window at 12 o'clock displays the hours in a cursive, playful font. Meanwhile, an aperture runs around the whole circumference of the dial, allowing for a black pointer to indicate the correct minutes. When the hour changes, the disc at 12 o'clock satisfyingly jumps into place. The three-dimensionality of the dial creates some interesting effects when it interacts with the light at different angles while on the wrist.

The dial layout of this Jump Hour is aesthetically satisfying, with ample details to get lost in. The centre features a subtle guilloché, applied by hand, which is broken up by the “Vacheron Constantin Genève” and “Automatic” signatures. The hour markers and the window surrounding the hours are made of yellow gold, bringing further richness to the overall aesthetic.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060J will be subject to 20% VAT.

This Vacheron Constantin Saltarello is in good overall condition. Superficial marks can be seen throughout relative to consistent wear over time. Noticeable marks are found on the top and reverse of the lugs, likely due to strap changes. Parts of the Maltese cross and numbered engravings on the caseback have been worn out, though not entirely. The dial has evenly aged to a warm pale pink hue throughout including the engine turned central portion.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.